
In 1516, the Bavarians issued the Reinheitsgebot*, a purity
law that stated beer could be made with only three ingredients: water, hops,
and barley.

Of course, this was before the discovery of yeast and its
fundamentally crucial role in the creation and production of beer, but still,
to a modern micro-brewer, what rigid guidelines! Interestingly enough,
the vast majority of German brewers still adhere to this basic principle.
Not so much Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head Breweries creator, owner, and
luminary.

Most micro-brew enthusiasts have tried or at least have
heard of Dogfish Head beers, many of which are commonly known as “extreme
beers” in reference to their high ABV, their unique ingredients, and the
unorthodox methods and procedures used to brew them. Dogfish’s motto is
“off-centered ales for off-centered people”, an apt slogan
indeed. Interestingly enough, as wacky as certain Dogfish beers are, some
of their most acclaimed creations are actually modern interpretations of ancient
beers. For instance, the recipe for their “Midas Touch” dates
back to 730 B.C. and was culled from the resins that were left inside the
drinking urns unearthed in the tombs of Phrygian Kings (King Midas!), bygone
rulers of what is now Turkey. Apparently the Phrygians used to brew beer
with honey, barley, grapes and saffron, and so Dogfish set about ressurecting
this most ancient of beers.

In keeping with this ancient-to-modern tradition, our latest
mystery beer, Dogfish’s Sah’Tea, has its origins in a 9th century proto-beer
brewed in Finland known as Sahti. Sahti is made primarily with malted and
unmalted grains like rye and barley, and is unique in that it derives most of
its flavor not from hops but from juniper berries. In keeping with
Dogfish’s off-centered mantra, Sam Calagione decided to infuse his version of
Sahti with a unique blend of Chai Tea (ingredients include cardamom, coriander,
ginger, allspice, rampe leaves, lemongrass, curry powder, and black tea), hence
“Sah’Tea”. Clever, no? Now, I majored in history and
though I love my field, I am well aware of the narcoleptic properties of its
lectures, so let’s get to the beer.

Sah’tea pours a nice golden-orange color, with a rather
insignificant head. It is highly aromatic with a spicy nose, and you’ll
breathe in hues of banana, lemon, coriander, and ginger, with a ubiquitous
undercurrent of tangy juniper. Consider the aromas a prediction of
flavors to come, as its palate (to me) almost tastes like a sweetly sour banana
infused with juniper and a variety of subtle spices deriving from the tea
infusion. Personally, I was taken aback by its mouthfeel.
Stylistically the Sah’Tea is fairly close to a weizen (wheat beer), however,
its mouthful in certain ways is closer to a stout or porter: full, rich, and
not too heavily carbonated. The beer finishes smoothly given its 9 % ABV,
with a lingering aftertaste of spice and juniper.
Overall, I really enjoyed the Sah’Tea, though I will say
that this beer is probably not for everyone. It is very complex, very
esoteric, quite strong, and is widely open to interpretation; go on
Beeradvocate if you feel like a background check. So, if you’re a staunch
follower of the Reinheitsgebot, I’d shy away from this beer. But if
you’re feeling a little bold, a little thirsty, individualistic, and dare-I-say
a little off-centered, then you best get down to the Little Pub asap and try
this piece of twisted history before it dries up and goes the way of the
Phrygians, entombed forever as a resinous memory in your skull and liver.
*http://www3.sympatico.ca/n.rieck/docs/Reinheitsgebot.html